A BRIEF HISTORY: MODS, SKINHEADS, SUEDEHEADS & PUNKS

In 1948 HMT Empire Windrush arrived in Tilbury docks, most of the passengers came from Jamaica and as they walked down the gangplank dressed in their smartest sharp cut suits wearing large, brimmed trilby hats and colourful ties bringing with them a distict style and Black American music, including soul and rhythm and blues…. The lifestyle of skin heads is music fashion and football but first the emergence of Soho faces that would soon be classed as Mods.

Picture above: Jamaican immigrants disembark from the Empire Windrush at Tilbury. Photo courtesy of PA Media.

Mods emerged in the late 50’s wearing smart, clothes drinking in coffee bars listening to the music of Black America. Back in those days it was easy to identify a Mod, but now the movement has changed and whilst there will always be purists, different adaptions of traditional Mod style have merged forming new movements such as Northern Soul, Skinheads and even (at a stretch) Punk.

Why? Because the music, the fashion, the culture has blurred the lines. But still, whatever your preference, everyone can agree that both music and fashion is still as strong today as it was way back in the coffee bars of the 50’s.

Mods probably got their name from Modern Jazz, listening to Charlie Parker, Miles Davies and artists that appeared on the Blue Note label. The musicians always looked cool, wearing suits and button-down shirts, later in the clubs Mods were drawn into the R&B (Rhythm then and Blues).

How did the music land in the UK, from the docks of London and Liverpool, sailors bringing in the 78’s records of R&B sound which influenced The Beatles, The Rolling Stones, The Kinks, The Small Faces, The Spencer Davies Group and The Who to name a small few.

Left to right: The Who, The Small Faces and The Kinks

Mods are very style conscious, and things must be designed and look good, the early days three button suits cut short to the body and nicked named bumfreezers, shoes were brogues and tassel loafers. Button down shirts worn with skinny ties one of the most popular shirts is a Ben Sherman which was noted for its three-button collar, other favoured trousers are Levis and Sta Press with Fred Perry polo shirt with Harrington jackets and fishtail parkas.

Fashion changed slightly when psychodelia came into the scene and Mods had a passion for paisley or garish patterned shirts with longer collars but keeping true to the suits.

Mods liked the Italian style, and the choice of transportation is a Vespa and Lambretta, the scooters had features that allowed the suit not to get crumpled or oil stained, in addition the scooters can be “pimped” up with additional lights or mirrors making it stand out from the rest of the crowd.

The Who in 1973 released Quadrophenia and in 1979 the movie came out the story set in London in 1964 story of Jimmy a Mod.

Pictured above: The Who

It was always difficult to identify between Mods and Skinheads style wise as standard clothes were the same, hairstyle differed but both preferred transport via scooter, besides the joint love of music there was always the fighting, Mods v Rockers, Brighton seafront was a famous venue for a regular tear up, whilst Skinheads fights took place on the football terraces, the press would nickname Skinheads “Bovver Boys” as they would fight rival gangs from different football clubs but also target other subcultures such as Hippies as well as Pakistanis giving Skinheads a bad name for violence, which inspired Saturday is alright for Fighting by Elton John.

Lambretta refurbished and customised by Saigon Scooter : www.saigonscootercentre.com 

Early 70’s the Suedehead look came onto the scene although some would argue it was late 60’s, Suedehead was Skinheads who had grown their hair out of the close crop and look smarter, a clean-cut image with a hard London edge, the clothes were chinos with brogues, blazers, and ties, Suedehead were more elite than Skinheads.

Pictured above: Skinheads walking past hippies

British Punk Rock arguably started off in the clubs in London in the mid-seventies, it emerged from The Glam Rock era and was 2.5-to-3-minute fast thrashing songs which was a protest against progressive rock and the self-indulgent 15-minute solos! British punk was also about the right to works as Britain entered a recession, Punk style was initially a rebuttal of mainstream clothing and was made up of homemade T. Shirts, but later Vivian Westwood and Malcome McLaren shop influenced Punk fashion, as always Punks had their rivals the Teddy Boys and fights often ensued down The Kings Road in Chelsea.

Johnny Rotten of the Sex Pistols in a checked Vivian Westwood suit, a crossover between Mod and Punk

Punk was relatively short lived turning into New Wave and then on to New Romantics. Punks had a liking for tartan trousers and jackets and perhaps tenuous link, but Mod and Skinheads also liked tartan.

The Jam came out of the Punk scene which gave Mod a new lease of life, although some would say it never really went away.

Left to right: Paul Weller, Bruce Foxton and Rick Bucklet; The Jam

“I'm still a mod, I'll always be a mod, you can bury me a mod.”

Paul Weller